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PUBLISHED   BY 

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30  BROAD  ST.,  NEW  YORK 


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CONCRETE   GARAGES 

THE    FIREPROOF    HOME 
FOR    THE    AUTOMOBILE 


•  •      • 


PUBLISHED.BY 

THE  ATLAS  PORTLAND  CEMENT  COMPANY 

30     BROAD     STREET 

NEW  YORK 


734y 

A7 


Copyrighted  by 

The  Atlas  Portland  Cement  Company 

30  Broad  Street,  New  York 

All  Rights  Reserved 

Fifth  Edition 


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Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/concretegaragesfOOatlarich 


CONCRETE    GARAGES 


With  the  advent  of  the  automobile  and  its  growing  popularity,  especially 
among  the  people  living  in  suburban  towns,  there  has  come  a  demand  for  a 
new  class  of  building — the  private  garage.  The  necessary  storage  of  oils, 
gasoline  and  other  combustible  materials,  makes  the  garage  a  veritable  fire- 
trap,  unless  a  fireproof  building  is  erected. 

Concrete,  by  reason  of  its  adaptability  to  varying  conditions,  is  the  cheapest 
satisfactory  fireproof  building  material,  and  the  absurdity  of  storing  a  vsiluable 
automobile  in  a  building  liable  to  burn  at  any  moment,  when,  for  a  small  dif- 
ference in  price,  a  fraction  of  the  cost  of  the  automobile,  a  fireproof  building 
can  be  built,  is  readily  apparent. 

Many  automobile  owners  have  realized  this  situation,  and  the  illustrations 
in  this  book  show  a  few  simple  designs  in  concrete  garages  which  have  been 
built  for  the  proper  housing  of  automobiles  and  the  protection  of  the  property. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  wood  is  not  a  proper  material  for  the 
construction  of  garages.  Moreover,  wood  floors  become  soaked  with  oil  and 
quickly  rot  tires.  Aside  from  being  inflammable,  the  high  cost  of  lumber 
and  of  the  skilled  labor  necessary  renders  the  difference  in  price  between 
wood  and  concrete  a  negligible  quantity. 

Brick  work  and  masonry  are  as  a  rule  very  much  more  expensive  than 
concrete,  while  offering  no  additional  advantages. 

There  are  several  ways  of  using  concrete  in  garage  construction,  each  of 
which  will  give  good  results,  the  best  methods  being  determined  largely  by 
local  conditions,  such  as  the  supply  of  skilled  or  unskilled  labor  and  the  quality 
of  material  to  be  had.  Simple  one-story  garages  can  be  constructed  without 
difficulty  under  the  direction  of  a  good  foreman,  but  for  the  more  elaborate 
buildings  and  those  of  more  than  one  story,  an  architect  or  engineer  thor- 
oughly familiar  with  concrete  construction  should  be  employed.  This  is 
essential  when  reinforced  concrete  floors  are  to  be  built. 

The  following  methods  of  building  concrete  garages  are  the  most  popular, 
and  used  either  singly  or  in  combination  will  give  satisfactory  results. 

I. — Mass  or  reinforced  concrete. 

2. — Concrete  hollow  tile. 

3. — Concrete  block. 

4. — Pipe  frame  with  wire  lath  and  stucco. 

5. — Wood  stud  frame  and  stucco. 

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GENERAL    DIRECTIONS. 

*The  selection  of  materials  for  building  with  concrete  should  be  carefully 
undertaken,  as  without  the  best  material  a  first  class  job  cannot  be  expected. 

These  brief  rules  should  always  be  kept  in  mind:  ist — Use  clean  coarse 
sand,  broken  stone  or  clean  screened  gravel  and  Atlas  Portland  Cement.  2d — 
Make  sure  the  concrete  is  thoroughly  mixed.  3d — That  sufficient  water  is 
added  to  produce  a  mushy  mixture.  4th — The  concrete  is  used  before  it  gets 
its  initial  set — the  result  will  be  a  hard,  dense  concrete. 

The  selection  of  the  aggregate  (sand  and  broken  stone  or  gravel)  will  play 
an  important  part  in  the  appearance  of  the  finished  work,  and  where  a  par- 
ticular shade  or  color  is  desired,  it  is  recommended  that  a  sample  batch  of 
concrete  be  made,  using  exactly  the  material  that  is  to  be  used  in  the  work. 

Atlas  Portland  Cement  is  particularly  light  in  color,  and,  therefore,  pecu- 
liarly adapted  to  obtaining  beautiful  effects. 

MASS  OR  REINFORCED  CONCRETE  CONSTRUCTION. 

Mass  concrete,  by  which  is  meant  solid  concrete,  built  in  place  between 
temporary  wooden  forms,  is  a  most  durable  and  substantial  type.  Floors  may 
be  built  of  the  same  material,  but  must  be  properly  reinforced  with  steel. 

In  preparing  the  footing  for  a  garage,  excavate  a  trench  to  the  depth  below 
the  frost  line,  six  inches  wider  than  the  proposed  wall,  and  fill  to  within  8 
inches  of  the  ground  level  with  concrete — i  part  Atlas  Portland  Cement,  3 
parts  clean  coarse  sand,  6  parts  broken  stone  or  gravel.  After  the  concrete  is 
sufficiently  hard  to  withstand  the  weight  build  the  fforms  for  the  proposed 
wall  in  the  center  of  the  footing  and  fill  with  concrete — i  part  Atlas  Portland 
Cement,  2  parts  clean  coarse  sand,  4  parts  broken  stone  or  gravel — using  a 
stable  or  coal  fork  to  work  the  large  pieces  of  aggregate  away  from  the  sur- 
face, letting  the  mortar  and  fine  material  through  so  as  to  make  a  dense, 
smooth,  hard  surface.  The  forms  for  the  walls  may  be  taken  off  in  48  hours 
in  warm  weather,  but  should  remain  longer  if  the  weather  is  cool.  In  cold 
weather  concrete  may  be  handled  with  excellent  results,  but  all  material  must 
be  heated,  including  the  cement  and  the  water,  to  fully  80  degrees,  and  as  soon 
as  deposited  must  be  covered  and  kept  warm  until  thoroughly  set.  In  hot 
weather  concrete  should  be  kept  covered,  sheltered  from  the  sun  as  much  as 
possible  and  continually  wet  down.  You  cannot  give  concrete  too  much 
water  after  it  has  set. 

For  a  one-story  garage,  the  walls  need  not  be  over  8  inches  thick.     For  a 


*  For  detailed  information  as  to  the  selection  of  materials  and  the  methods  of  mix- 
ing and  depositmg  concrete,  see  our  "Concrete  Construction  About  the  Home  and  on 
the  Farm,"  free  upon  request. 


See  forms  p.  19— "Concrete  Construction  About  the  Home  and  on  the  Farm.' 


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Forms  for  Mass  Concrete. 


two-story  building  make  the  first  story  lo  inches  thick  and  the  second  story 
8  inches  thick.  After  the  forms  are  in  place,  it  is  desirable  to  smear  the  inner 
surface  with  petroleum  (crude  vaseline),  soft  soap  or  other  similar  material. 
After  the  forms  are  removed  and  before  the  surface  of  the  concrete  has  dried 
out,  the  board  marks  should  be  removed  by  rubbing  the  surface  with  car- 
borundum brick  and  washing  down  with  clean  water.  This  method  is  superior 
to  applying  a  wash  of  any  kind.  A  piece  of  hard  sandstone  will  do  for  this 
rubbing,  but  the  carborundum  will  work  faster  and  cut  cleaner. 

For  mouldings,  panels,  projections  or  recesses  corresponding  moulds 
should  be  made  in  wood  and  set  up  rigidly  with  the  wooden  form  work  and 
filled  simultaneously  with  the  rest  of  the  walls.  It  is  best  to  fill  entire 
sections  of  the  wall  in  one  operation,  stopping  only  at  a  moulding  or  other 
horizontal  line,  as  it  is  difficult  to  bond  concrete  masses  and  the  line  of 
cleavage  or  demarcation  between  masses  of  concrete  deposited  at  different 
times  is  likely  to  show  permanently.  If  a  wall  is  to  be  stuccoed,  it  would 
be  desirable  to  reduce  the  quantity  of  the  sand  and  allow  more  or  less  honey- 
combing to  appear  on  the  surface  of  the  work  to  give  an  additional  bond  to 
the  mortar,  and  it  is  desirable  to  wait  a  month  or  so  after  the  concrete  has 
been  poured  before  the  stucco  is  applied  to  a  concrete  wall. 

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A  good  combination  will  be  found  to  be  a  skeleton  of  reinforced  concrete 
with  piers  from  i6  ft.  to  i8  ft.  apart,  with  the  panel  between  the  piers  made 
of  concrete  blocks  or  tile.  The  panel  wall  may  be  made  of  solid  concrete,  the 
same  as  the  piers,  but  a  more  attractive  looking  building  and  a  more  eco- 
nomical construction  can  be  obtained  by  the  first  method.  If  more  elaborate 
effects  are  desired,  much  can  be  done  by  using  facing  of  fine  material  of 
crushed  granite  or  marble.  Atlas  Portland   Cement,  and  carefully  selected 


Garage  at   Beverly   Farms,   Mass.     Solid   Concrete. 


sand,  and  after  the  concrete  has  reached  a  proper  hardness,  tooling  the  face  so 
as  to  bring  out  the  texture  of  the  facing  mixture.  Stonecutters'  tools  are 
used  for  this  purpose,  and  a  great  variety  of  effects  may  be  secured  by  a 
judicious  choice  of  material. 

A  sloping  or  hip  roof  is  not  easily  managed  in  fireproof  construction,  and 
the  safest  and  most  economical  scheme  is  to  use  a  wood  roof  covered  with 
slate,  asbestos  or  tile  and  sealed  on  the  under  side  with  a  metal  lath  and 
cement  ceiling  built  in  the  same  manner  as  the  walls  of  the  pipe  frame  garage 
described. 


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CONCRETE  TILE  CONSTRUCTION. 

In  various  parts  of  the  country  concrete  hollow  tile  are  to  be  had  which 
are  exceedingly  economical  for  wall  building.  They  are  made  in  various 
shapes  and  sizes  and  may  be  laid  up  by  any  brick  mason  rapidly  and  efficiently. 
The  accompanying  drawing  will  give  some  suggestion  as  to  the  method  of 
laying  these  tile. 


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Garage  at  Far  Rockaway,  L.  I.    Stucco  on  Wood  Stud  and  Metal  Lath. 

A  footing  should  be  laid  extending  3  inches  on  each  side  of  the  proposed 
wall  and  from  8  inches  to  10  inches  in  thickness.  This  footing  should  be 
carried  down  below  frost  line,  as  in  mass  construction.  The  tiles  which  are  to 
be  had  usually  10  inches  vidde  and  8  inches  high,  should  be  laid  on  top  of  this 
footing  and  carried  up  to  ground  level  or  above.  If  the  load  is  not  too  heavy 
the  smaller  tile — 6"  x  8" — ^may  be  laid  up  for  the  rest  of  the  wall.  The  tile 
shown  in  the  drawing  at  the  right  are  corner  tile,  with  the  cells  running  ver- 
tically instead  of  horizont£dly,  and  may  be  used  in  combination  with  the  regu- 
lar wall  tile  for  the  purpose  of  turning  corners  and  working  around  doors  and 
window  jambs.  If  a  two-story  building  is  required  it  is  advisable  to  fill  the 
comer  tiles  with  concrete  and  reinforce  the  piers  thus  formed  with  steel  bars. 
It  will  also  be  found  advisable  to  carry  the  8"  x  10"  tile  up  to  the  level  of  the 
underside  of  the  beams  and  use  the  smaller  tile  for  the  second  story.    A  large 


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amount  of  variation  is  possible  with  the  use  of  concrete  tile,  which  will  readily 
suggest  themselves  to  anyone  desiring  to  build  by  this  method.  An  excellent 
fireproof  floor  can  be  made  by  using  the  corner  tile  for  floor  fillers  with  con- 
crete ribs  between  as  indicated  in  the  sketch. 

*Stucco  adheres  readily  to  concrete  tile  walls,  provided  the  wall  is  thor- 


Garage  at  Paterson,  N.  J.    Concrete  Block. 

oughly  wet  when  the  stucco  is  being  applied.  The  stucco,  being  of  the  same 
material  and  having  the  same  coefficient  of  expansion  as  the  tile,  does  not 
crack,  as  is  often  the  case  when  terra  cotta  tile  is  used. 


CONCRETE  BLOCK  WALL  CONSTRUCTION. 

.Concrete  blocks  differ  from  concrete  tile  in  the  method  of  manufacture. 
They  are  heavier  and  less  economical  than  tile,  but  may  be  had  in  almost 
every  locality,  and  if  reasonably  well  made  will  do  excellent  service.  They  are 
generally  made  with  rock  face  or  finished  surfaces  and  consequently  do  not 
require  any  surface  treatment  or  stucco.  There  are  many  types  of  blocks  on 
the  market  and  there  is  little  choice  between  them,  although  a  wall  made  of 
two  pieces  is,  as  a  rule,  superior  to  a  wall  made  of  one  piece,  as  these  blocks 
arc  not  as  water-tight  as  wet  mixed  concrete,  and  the  wall  is  likely  to  be  damp 

♦See  Method  of  Applying  Stucco  Under  Pipe  Frame,  Wire  Lrath  and  Stucco. 

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if  made  of  one-piece  blocks.  By  using  good  facing  material  and  a  rich 
mixture,  however,  very  good  weatherproof  blocks  can  be  made.  Sills  and 
lintels  may  be  cast  in  wooden  forms  to  fit  window  and  door  openings. 

Concrete  blocks  should  be  laid  as  cut  stone  and  any  good  foreman  is 
competent  to  superintend  the  work. 

Garages  of  this  construction  are  very  often  stuccoed,  as  will  be  seen  by  the 
illustrations. 


Garage  at  Paterson,  N.  J.    Concrete  Block. 

PIPE  WIRE  LATH  AND  STUCCO. 

This  type  of  garage  will  be  found  very  economical  where  material  for  con- 
crete making  is  scarce,  and  where  an  owner  does  not  want  to  go  to  the 
expense  of  solid  construction.  This  construction  consists  of  a  frame  work  of 
pipe  which  can  readily  be  had  and  is  simply  put  together.  The  frame  work 
is  set  in  a  base  of  concrete  and  the  walls  are  covered  with  wire  lath  and 
mortar.  The  method  is  simple  and  at  the  same  time  is  applicable  to  variation 
and  decoration  so  as  to  meet  all  practical  requirements  and  make  an  artistic 
structure. 

FOOTING  WALLS. 
Excavate  and  build  a  footing  wall  from  the  surface  of  the  ground  to  below 

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frost  line.  Provide  a  footing  under  the  wall  6  inches  thick  extending  3  inches 
on  either  side.  The  wall  itself  should  be  12  inches  thick,  built  between  suit- 
able plank  forms.  Mix  the  concrete  for  the  wall  and  footing  in  the  propor- 
tion of  I  part  Atlas  Portland  Cement,  2  parts  clean,  coarse  sand  and  5  parts 
gfravel  or  broken  stone.  Use  sufficient  water  to  make  a  soft  concrete  and 
puddle  into  place  until  forms  are  thoroughly  filled,  flush  to  the  top. 


Diagram  of  Pipe  Frame  Garage. 


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PIPE  DOWELS. 

Before  the  concrete  has  set  imbed  along  the  center  line  of  the  wall  pipe 
dowels  8  inches  long,  threaded  to  receive  the  standards  AA.  If  angles  are 
used  in  place  of  piping,  the  dowels  should  be  large  enough  to  let  the  angles 
down  inside  so  that  cement  mortar  made  of  i  part  Atlas  Portland  Cement  to 
2  parts  of  sand  may  be  poured  down  into  the  dowels  to  hold  the  angles  rigidly 
in  place. 


Garage  at  Scarsdale,  N.  Y.    Concrete  Block. 

The  frame  should,  of  course,  be  laid  out  carefully  on  paper,  and  all  dimen- 
sions determined.  The  local  gasfitter  or  blacksmith  can  then  get  out  main 
structural  parts  and  assemble  them,  only  light  tools  being  necessary  in  either 
case.  For  a  pipe  frame  use  2i/^-inch  galvanized  uprights,  spaced  not  more 
than  5  feet  on  centers  and  ij^-inch  galvanized  horizontals  about  4  feet  apart. 
The  frame,  having  been  set  up,  fastens  on  the  studs  SS  of  ^-inch  by  J^-i^^ch 
flatiron  bent  around  the  horizontal  pipe  and  stretched  well  into  place.  The 
studs  should  not  be  more  than  16  inches  on  centers. 

Metal  lath  should  be  laced  to  the  studs  DD,  tied  on  well  with  No.  16  wire. 
There  are  a  number  of  kinds  of  lath  on  the  market,  some  of  which  are  ribbed 
and  provided  with  clips  or  fasteners  to  take  the  place  of  wiring.  Any  of 
these  will  do,  but  it  is  essential  that  the  ratio  of  opening  in  the  lath  be  large 

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as  compared  with  the  area  of  metal.  Wire  mesh,  expanded  metals  and  the 
like  are  best  for  walls  of  this  kind.  Wherever  the  mortar  is  to  be  carried 
around  the  pipe  frame,  as  at  the  edge  of  the  eaves,  carry  the  metal  lath  well 
around  and  wire  firmly. 

In  pipe  frame  construction  three  coats  of  stucco  will  be  required  to  make 
a  good  wall  finishing  about  i^/^  inches  thick;  two  coats  being  applied  outside 
and  one,  a  finishing  coat,  inside,  a  single  layer  of  metal  being  used. 


Garage  at  Woodmere,  L.  I.    Stucco  on  Wood  Frame  and  Metal  Lath. 


Small  i^-inch  channel  iron  frames,  punched  with  ij^-i^ich  holes  and  pro- 
vided with  bolts,  should  be  set  around  all  door  and  window  openings  to 
receive  a  wooden  buck  to  which  the  door  or  window  frame  may  be  fastened. 
This  should  be  done  before  stucco  is  applied. 

After  the  scratch  coat  (see  specifications  for  stucco,  p.  29)  has  been  applied 
to  roof  and  before  second  coat  is  put  on,  set  2-inch  by  i-inch  beveled  wooden 
strips  running  parallel  with  the  eaves  and  wire  firmly.  The  spacing  will 
depend  on  the  kind  of  roofing  to  be  used,  whether  slate,  asbestos,  tiles,  etc. 
After  the  strips  are  set  fill  flush  on  the  top  with  mortar  mixed  25^  parts  sand 
to  I  part  Atlas  Portland  Cement. 

If  desired  many  elaborate  and  beautiful  effects  may  be  secured  by  the 
introduction  of  panels  or  borders  in  tile,  mosaic,  or  even  pebbles  and  field 

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stones.  Frames  of  wood  of  required  outline  and  thickness  should  be  wired  to 
the  lathing  and  the  stucco  work  finished.  After  the  wall  is  hard  remove  the 
wooden  frames  carefully  and  fill  the  panels  by  grouting  in  the  tile  or  other 
ornament,  as  desired. 

Small  angle  iron  may  be  substituted  for  the  pipe  frame,  the  angle  irons 
being  cut  to  the  proper  length,  riveted  together  and  set  up  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  for  the  pipe  frame.  The  furring,  metal  lath,  stucco,  etc.,  will  be 
applied  in  the  same  manner  as  described. 


Interior  of  Garage  at  Allentown,  Showing  Wood  Frame  with  Stucco  on  Both  Sides 

of  Metal  Lath. 


WOOD  STUD  FRAME  AND  STUCCO. 

If  a  still  cheaper  method  is  desired,  the  frame  work  of  the  building  may 
be  constructed  of  wood,  2x4  wooden  studs  16  inches  on  centers  with  bridg- 
ing between  being  used  in  place  of  the  pipe  or  angle  iron  frame.  Staple  the 
metal  lath  on  to  the  wooden  studs,  but  have  the  stapling  loose  to  allow  a 
certain  amount  of  play  between  the  lath  and  the  stud. 

Use  two  coats  of  stucco  on  the  outside  and  apply  one  coat  inside  between 
the  2x4  studding.  A  neater  appearing  interior  can  be  had,  and  the  garage 
made  more  fireproof  by  lathing  and  stuccoing  the  interior  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  exterior,  but  in  place  of  making  a  rough  finish  the  finished  coat  should 
be  floated  smooth. 

Detail  drawings  of  a  wood  stud  garage  are  shown  on  page  27  and  a  photo 
on  page  24.     The  cost  of  this  garage  completed  was  $783.80. 

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GARAGE  FLOORS. 

Garage  floors  should  be  laid  the  same  as  sidewalks,  detailed  specifications 
for  which  are  given  in  our  book  "Concrete  Construction  about  the  Home  and 
on  the  Farm,"  copies  of  which  may  be  had  free  upon  request. 

SPECIFICATIONS  FOR  STUCCO. 

The  instructions  g^ven  below  should  be  closely  followed  in  building  any 
of  the  garages  described  in  this  book. 

"Stucco  work  may  be  used  to  cover  wood,  brick,  stone  or  any  other  build- 
ing material,  provided  special  precautions  are  taken  in  preparing  the  surface 
properly  so  that  it  will  adhere  and  not  crack  or  scale  off.  The  work  should 
be  done  by  an  experienced  plasterer. 

"As  a  rule,  two  coats  are  used — the  first,  a  scratch  coat  composed  of  five 
parts  Atlas  Portland  Cement,  twelve  parts  clean,  coarse  sand,  and  three  parts 
slaked  lime  putty  and  a  small  quantity  .of  hair;  the  second,  a  finishing 
coat  composed  of  one  part  Atlas  Portland  Cement,  three  or  even  five 
parts  clean,  coarse  sand  and  one  part  slaked  lime  paste.  Should  only  one 
coat  be  desired  the  finishing  coat  is  used.  Some  masons  prefer  a  mortar  in 
which  no  lime  is  used,  but  this  requires  more  time  to  apply. 

"To  apply  stucco  to  brick  or  stone  or  concrete,  clean  the  surface  of  the  wall 
thoroughly,  using  plenty  of  clean  water  so  as  to  soak  the  wall.  If  the  surface 
is  concrete  roughen  it  by  picking  with  a  stone  axe.  Plaster  with  a  ij^-inch 
coat  and  finish  the  surface  with  a  wood  float,  or  to  make  a  rough  surface  cover 
the  float  with  burlap.  Protect  the  stucco  work  from  the  sun  and  keep  it 
thoroughly  wet  for  three  or  four  days ;  the  longer  it  is  kept  wet  the  better. 

"In  using  stucco  on  a  frame  structure,  first  cover  surface  with  two  thick- 
nesses of  roofing  paper.  Next  put  on  furring  strips  about  one  foot  apart, 
and  on  these  fasten  wire  lathing.  (There  are  several  kinds,  any  of  which  are 
good.)  Apply  the  scratch  coat  ^-inch  thick  and  press  it  partly  through  the 
openings  in  the  lath,  roughing  the  surface  with  a  stick  or  trowel.  Allow  this 
to  set  well  and  apply  the  finishing  coat  y^  inch  to  i  inch  thick.  This  coat  can 
be  put  on  and  smoothed  with  a  wooden  float,  or  it  can  be  thrown  on  vdth  a 
trowel  or  large  stiff-fibred  brush,  if  a  spatter-dash  finish  is  desired.  A  pebble- 
dash  finish  may  be  obtained  with  a  final  coat  of  one  part  of  Atlas  Portland 
Cement,  three  parts  coarse  sand  and  pebbles  not  over  ^  inch  in  diameter, 
thrown  on  with  a  trowel." 

Quoted  from  copyrighted  book  "Concrete  Construction  about  the  Home 
and  on  the  Farm,"  page  156. 

29 


Solid   Concrete    Garage,    New   York    City. 


Solid  Concrete  Garage,  Newton,  Mass. 
30 


Solid  Concrete  Garage  Built  in  Wall,  Washington,  D.  C. 


Solid  Concrete  Garage,  Marblehead,  Mass. 
31 


Concrete  Block  and  Stucco  Garage,  Haworth,  N.  J. 


Concrete  Block  Garage,  Paterson,  N.  J. 

32 


Concrete   Garage   Adjoining  Residence,   Washington,   D.   C. 


Stucco  Garage,  Far  Rockaway,  L.  I. 
33 


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47 


Have  your  garage  finished 
with  Atlas -White    Stucco 

yyXLAS -WHITE  PORTLAND  CEMENT 
^^  is  just  like  any  Portland  Cement,  except 
that  it  is  white,  and  guaranteed  non- stain- 
ing. Your  garage  finished  with  Atlas- White  stucco 
will  present  a  beautiful  appearance  which  will 
blend  delightfully  with  its  surroundings. 

Atlas- White  is  a  true  Portland  Cement  and 
will  meet  the  standard  tests  for  this  material.  It 
is  used  for  exterior  and  interior  decorative  work; 
for  the  manufacture  of  garden  furniture  and  stat- 
uary; for  wainscoting  in  bathrooms,  kitchens,  and 
in  fact  any  work  where  a  white  surface  of  Port- 
land Cement  should  be  used. 


Send  for  circular  on  Atlas  -  White 


THE  ATLAS  Portland  CEMENT  CO. 

30  BROAD  STREET,  NEW  YORK 
Manufacturers  of  Atlas  and  Atlas-White  Portland  Cement 


48 


NONE  JUST  AS  GOOD 


I 


ATLAS-   the  cement    bought    b 
United    States  Government  for  Panama  G 


